Is a small step for sushi a great leap for tuna-kind?

Posted by Willie — 14 April 2010 at 10:33pm - Comments

For many people it seems that 'tuna' is synonymous with 'sushi'. And there's certainly no doubt that the demand for high quality tuna to feed the fashionable sushi restaurant demand has had a devastating impact on some tuna populations. None more so than bluefin tuna.

Both the Atlantic and Southern bluefin species are in dire trouble, trouble caused by overfishing, to satisfy a demand for the fatty red belly meat in expensive sushi, sold as 'toro'. It's a demand that has led to a fishing frenzy, in places like the Mediterranean , over the past few decades. It's a frenzy that has trampled over artisanal fishing methods and harvested bluefin tuna with little or no regard to the scientific advice, or the law. They are fisheries that have been so spectacularly mismanaged, it's not even laughable.

"The contaminants found in fish often overpower its beneficial effects. People think they're improving their health by eating sushi but they are in fact poisoning themselves."
Prof David Carpenter, University at Albany, New York

But the financial drivers are clear. At the start of this year a single bluefin sold for £109,000. And just last month the socio-economic concerns of the Atlantic bluefin fishing industry were used to argue away any attempt to create a trade ban to protect the species, this despite predictions it may be commercially extinct in just a few years. And despite the apparent collapse of the stocks of Southern bluefin, this month the New Zealand government increased quotas by 27% (as well as an additional 5% from last year's 'uncaught' quota…).

Now, more than ever, it is time for others to take the action that governments seem impotent to achieve. And one hugely important part of that when it comes to fish species in trouble is the demand we create by eating them.

That's why Greenpeace has shone an intrusive spotlight on the bluefin-peddlers, Nobu over a number of months. By continuing to serve up endangered species, Nobu create a demand. They also create an unrealistic assumption amongst their celebrity clientele and the broader public that this must be okay. I mean if the species is on the menu, it must be okay, right? 

It's not okay. It's like serving up rhino or tiger sushi. That's an analogy Nobu don't like. But it's true, and it makes you think about the fate of the species in a new light. Just as the fishing and ranching of bluefin tuna would be viewed very differently if the nets were full of pandas, or gorillas were being fattened up for market.

Nobu's argument, such that it is, is firstly 'that it's not illegal' (hardly a progressive approach there, guys…). More importantly perhaps they claim that (bluefin) tuna is central to Japanese culture and sushi cuisine, something that their customers expect and demand. Nobu seem to think that they need to have tuna in general and bluefin in particular on their menu to properly offer authentic sushi.

Nobu are wrong. Sushi doesn't mean tuna. It certainly shouldn't mean endangered species. Other more responsible chefs and restaurants like Soseki are quick to point out the vast array of more sustainable alternatives out there. My counterpart in Greenpeace USA , Casson Trenor , regularly gets very het up on the subject. In many ways relying on tuna is the lazy option. And increasingly it's an option that's difficult to justify.

So step forward London sushi restaurant Sushinho. They have recently made a fantastic announcement, as a result of their growing concern for what is happening to the world's tuna stocks. Sushinho have dropped all tuna from their menu, at least until such times as the stocks recover and they are being fished responsibly.

This is a great move from Sushinho. And were you minded to go to Nobu, I'd suggest you switch your reservation. It's fantastic to see that some restaurants, chefs and retailers are taking a stand whilst governments are still pathetically dithering. It's also fantastic to see the assumption that sushi must be tuna challenged. There are many other species of fish that can be sourced responsibly (and more locally) and with a bit of imagination, no one will miss the tuna* on the menu at all.

The reality is, of course, that if more restaurants and chefs don't follow suit, then in a few years time they may well not be in a position to make a choice on whether or not to serve up tuna. It will simply be too late.

* Because we know 'tuna' gets confusing, you can check here for a quick guide to what species are usually found where.

About Willie

Hi, I'm Willie, I work with Greenpeace on all things ocean-related

Twitter: @williemackenzie

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