Fashion waste from top UK brands found polluting endangered turtles’ habitat in Ghana

Discarded clothes from Next, Asda and M&S found in protected wetlands threatened by fast-growing waste dumps

Clothes discarded by UK consumers and exported to Ghana have been found in a huge new dumpsite growing inside internationally protected wetlands, an Unearthed and Greenpeace Africa investigation reveals. 

Stills and footage of the waste dumps and the UK-branded clothing available here.

Unearthed reporters have found garments from UK high-street brands Next, George at Asda, and Marks & Spencer inside the protected nature site home to rare birds and three species of turtles.

The clothes were located at or close to two open-air waste dumps that have recently appeared inside the wetlands. Clothing items from M&S, Zara, H&M, and Primark were also found at a sprawling third dump just on a riverbank just outside the nature reserve, from where fashion waste often floats downstream, polluting the wetlands.

Scientists are concerned about the impact on local wildlife of the microplastics and chemicals released from textile waste. Locals complain that their fishing nets, waterways and beaches are clogged with synthetic fast fashion exported to Ghana from the UK and Europe.

Ghana is the world’s largest importer of used clothing, with 15 million items of discarded garments arriving each week [1]. The UK sent more fashion waste to Ghana last year – 57,000 tonnes according to UN trade data – than to any other country except the UAE [2]. But local officials estimate about 40% of each bale is unusable – torn, stained, or unsuitable for the climate. 

This overspill has overwhelmed Accra, resulting in new waste dumps appearing just outside the capital. Unearthed reporters found two fast-growing tips inside a critical biodiversity area, the Densu Delta, designated a “Ramsar site”: a wetland of “international importance” under the Convention on Wetlands. One of the dumps, Glefe, has been established for just four years, according to Google Earth historical images, and it already looms taller than a two-storey building in places. The second, Akkaway, is less than a year old but rapidly expanding.

The protected nature site provides a habitat for birds such as rare roseate terns, which migrate from the UK, and curlew sandpipers, which visit from the Arctic tundra. The endangered leatherback and green turtles lay their eggs on the conservation area’s beach, as does the Olive Ridley turtle, known for nesting en masse on the same beach where it hatched [3]. 

Local people rely on the ecosystem for fishing and salt production. Unearthed has spoken to local fishermen who describe hauling in textile waste in their nets and blame it for a decline in fish stocks.

Commenting on the findings, Greenpeace UK’s plastic campaigner Laura Burley said:

“It’s heartbreaking to see a protected nature site turning into a waste dump because of our addiction to fast fashion. A dress designed to be worn just once or twice before being thrown away could pose a threat to rare birds and marine turtles in these protected wetlands for decades to come, while also harming people’s livelihoods. And with the majority of these garments made of plastic fibres, our throwaway clothes are adding to the plastic pollution choking our oceans. The UK government should force fashion retailers to take some responsibility for the waste they create while backing strong targets to cut plastic production in the UN Global Plastics Treaty.”

Dr Jones Quartey, a wetland ecologist at the University of Ghana, told Unearthed that disposing of textiles in wetlands could cause irreparable harm. “This is dangerous – more so when we don’t know what chemicals are in the textile waste,” he said. “The bioaccumulation and biomagnification of microplastics in aquatic organisms and humans could pose risks such as physical damage, chemical exposure and disruption of biological processes.”

When contacted by Unearthed, the fashion labels acknowledged that the industry faces challenges around processing textile waste. M&S, George, and Primark said they run “take-back” schemes to help address the issue. H&M, Zara, and George said they would support an extended producer responsibility framework to hold labels accountable for their products’ end-of-life impact.  

Read the full investigation here.

ENDS

Contact: Greenpeace UK news team at press.uk@greenpeace.org and on 020 7865 8255

Stills and footage of the waste dumps and UK-branded clothes, as well as interviews with local people, can be downloaded here.

Notes

1. From a Greenpeace Africa report: https://www.greenpeace.org/africa/en/press/56381/fast-fashion-slow-poison-new-report-exposes-toxic-impact-of-global-textile-waste-in-ghana/
2. UN trade data:
   https://comtradeplus.un.org/TradeFlow?Frequency=A&Flows=X&CommodityCodes=6309&Partners=all&Reporters=826&period=2024&AggregateBy=none&BreakdownMode=plu
3. https://ghanawildlife.org/densu.html